Tar
& Mustard
Work glycerin (available @ drugstores in
the hand cream section) into the spot. Let
stand 30-60 minutes. Working carefully with
paper towels, use a lifting motion to remove
the spot. This may require multiple treatments.
Follow with a good spotter.
Candle Wax
Put ice in a plastic bag and lay over the
wax, allowing it to freeze. Chip off all
wax that you can. Next, lay brown paper
over the wax (a grocery bad works great;
use the area without the writing) and press
with a medium/hot iron. Remove the paper
as it absorbs so that you don't redeposit
the wax on the carpet. Continue as long
as any wax shows up on the bag.
Soot
Sprinkle with salt and wait at least 2 hours,
then vacuum, using the attachment hose to
concentrate the suction. Spot with a good
spotter or use Engine Cleaning Fluid.
Gum
Freeze with ice in a bag and chip off all
that you can. Work a little petroleum jelly
into the remaining residue and roll the
gum into it. Scrape up and follow with a
good spotter or use Engine Cleaning Fluid.
Duct Cleaning
Duct cleaning consists of removing register
covers and vacuuming out all the ductwork
that leads to the furnace. After some elaborate
preparatory vacuuming and cleaning procedures,
which include cleaning procedures, all register
covers; a duct sealer is introduced into
the system in the form of a fine mist. This
sealer is a plastic-like resin. The chemical
itself actually neutralizes odor and seals
onto the interior walls of the system the
loose soot, dust and dirt that remain after
vacuuming. During the process all odor is
eliminated and minor residues remaining
in unseen or unreachable areas are permanently
sealed onto the interior surface of the
ducts.
Air Ducts
Duct cleaning and deodorizing is not just
for houses that have had fire or smoke damage.
It is very beneficial in older homes where
dust and allergy-causing bacteria have accumulated
in the ductwork and are blown through the
home each time the furnace runs. Duct cleaning
can be very beneficial for people who have
allergy problems, too.
What is an Anti-microbial?
Many water damage restoration firms have
a wonderful anti-microbial product available
that not only disinfects, but also inhibits
the growth of mold, mildew and bacterial
spores. This is applied to the carpet after
extraction takes place and has certainly
saved many a carpet.
Sewer Backups
If your water damage is due to a sewer backup,
these restoration firms are trained to deal
with it. Stay out of the water and waste.
Let the trained experts deal with the water
and bacterial problems; that's their job
and they know what can be saved and what
can't.
Water Damage - Restoration
Wet carpet and pad are restorable if it
is taken care of as soon as possible after
the damage has occurred. A professional
company that deals in water damage of all
kinds can stop further damage from occurring
and also save the carpet and pad.
Dry Out
Extract water from the pad and the carpet
and treat both with an EPA registered disinfectant.
If done professionally they will install
drying equipment, which consists of high-powered
carpet blowers that are slipped between
the carpet and the pad. They also will install
dehumidifier equipment to facilitate drying.
They will advise you to keep your home's
interior temperature at 70 degrees or warmer
for ideal drying conditions. This drying
equipment will also facilitate drying of
upholstered furniture and walls as it dries
the carpet. The water damage restoration
firm will check, usually every 24 hours
to see how the drying process is coming
and to move equipment to continue the drying
process.
Glue
Try saturating the glue with undiluted white
vinegar. Working with an upward motion,
work it out of the fibers and spot with
Engine Cleaning Fluid. For rubber cement,
use the method above for gum.
Ink
Spray on hair spray or blot with rubbing
alcohol. For heavy spots, try denatured
alcohol. Blot well and follow with a spotter.
Silly Putty, Clay and Similar Products
Scrape off what you can with the dull edge
of a knife. Spray with WD-
40 lubricant and let stand about 10-15 minutes.
Scrape again. Re-spray as required, wiping
up the stain with an old rag. Once you have
removed the residue of the product, apply
rubbing alcohol to the stain and blot, blot,
blot. Reapply as necessary.
Pet Problems
Pet odor is a protein-based problem and
cannot be eliminated by normal spotting
procedures. In order to remove odor, you
must use an enzyme product to digest the
protein, particularly in urine. Two nationwide
products are Outright Pet Odor Eliminator
made by the Brampton Company and Nature's
Miracle. Generally, pet accidents soak
through the carpet back and into the pad,
so the enzyme treatment needs to soak
in just as deeply. Not putting the enzyme
in deeply enough will not eliminate the
odor. Be sure to saturate the entire area,
covering the circumference of the stain
thoroughly.
Remember, the urine goes into the carpet
deeply and spreads.
The Secret
Cover the treated area with a plastic
garbage bag or a dry cleaner's bag. If
there is any lettering on the bag do not
let it touch the carpet or it will transfer
to the carpet. Weight the plastic down
with something heavy-the idea is to keep
enzyme from drying out until it can do
its job, which is digesting the protein
in the urine or feces. Leave the plastic
in place at least 24 hours, preferable
48 hours-resist temptation. Uncover the
area and allow it to dry thoroughly. This
may require as much as a week to 10 days,
depending on how deeply you treated the
spot. To speed drying; let a fan blow
across the area.
Once the area is completely dry, check
for odor. If there is still odor, re-treat
as directed above. If the odor is gone,
clean the area with a good-quality carpet
spotter that specializes in pet stains.
If you have pets, keep some enzyme cleaner
and carpet spotter on hand for pet accident
emergencies.
Don't panic if you have No Enzyme or
Carpet Spotter!!!
First, soak up as much liquid as possible
from the carpet and remove any solids.
If you have club soda on hand pour that
on and blot by standing on paper towels
or rags (if you have no club soda, then
use cold water). Mix a mild solution of
white vinegar and water (1/3 cup vinegar
in a 1 quart bottle filled with cool water)
in a spray bottle and spray onto pet stains
to help remove the smell. Rinse with clear
water and blot. Now go to the store at
the earliest possible moment and buy the
enzyme product and spotter and use as
discussed previously. Urine spots may
change the carpet color. If this happens,
try sponging the area with a mild ammonia
solution. This will sometimes return the
carpet to its original color or at least
make it less noticeable.
When the Cat Leaves You a Hairball
or the Spaghetti Doesn't Agree With the
Dog.
First, resist the temptation to wipe up
the mess. If there are solids that can
be picked up with a paper towel do so,
but do not smear the accident into the
carpet. Trying to wipe it up immediately
will only make the mess worse. Instead
sprinkle a heavy coating of baking soda
on the area and allow it to dry. The baking
soda will absorb moisture and digestive
acids. Once the area is dry, remove the
baking soda with paper towels or vacuum
the area, removing all of the mess that
will come up. Vacuum very thoroughly to
remove the bakingsoda.
Then and only then, you would grab the
rag and the cleaner. Use your favorite
carpet spotter, following the directions
carefully. Remember to blot rather than
rub. If any discoloration remains after
cleaning, try applying either undiluted
lemon juice or hydrogen peroxide from
the drugstore.
Let it soak on the stain for 15 minutes
and then blot. If the spot is still visible,
apply again, watching carefully to be
sure that there are no changes in carpet
color. If you need a more aggressive treatment,
mix lemon juice and cream of tartar into
a paste. Apply to the spot, let dry, and
then vacuum up. When done with any of
these procedures, rinse the carpet with
cool water.
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